Malaysia Travel Guide:
Malaysia suffers from severe Asian Tiger Syndrome. I suppose background is in order: During the late 1980s, following Japan’s meteoric rise in status to economic powerhouse, the remainder of Asia sought desperately to follow in her shining footsteps. The emerging economic powers of Southeast Asia, buoyed by Japan’s rise, were dubbed the “Asian Tigers.” These nations became, in effect, an extension of the Japanese workforce, or more specifically, their factories – importing Japanese know-how, technology and styles of management and exporting semiconductors, chips and televisions.
Malaysia was one of these Tiger nations. Though often under the shadow of Singapore, Malaysia quickly developed an educated and skilled workforce that was ready and fit to the task of being technology factory to the world. But something happened on the way to riches. Japan's economy faltered and economic crisis spread throughout Asia. By 1997, at the height of the Asian economic crisis, these once ready-to-pounce Asian Tigers were facing massive withdraws of foreign funds, currency devaluation, deep recessions and inflation. The Asian Tigers were little more now than troubled developing nations.
Malaysia and her sister Tigers had to regroup and retrench. For most Asian nations, this meant reassessing economic growth, settling their currencies, and accepting more conservative development plans. For Malaysia, having tasted the first-world and anxious to get back, this crisis called for more aggressive growth in order to outpace other Asian nations and to lure foreign investment back. In the past 5 years, retail space in Kuala Lumpur has doubled to 40 million sq ft. Convention centers and luxury hotels are being raised with near-reckless abandon. The country inaugurated the Malaysia Grand Prix after winning a spot on the professional world racing circuit. In fact, throughout Malaysia, you see evidence of the country’s boundless ambitions: world-class airports overbuilt to twice the number of terminals needed, the world’s tallest building (to this day never once fully occupied), entire islands turned into world-class resorts. And then – there is the money. (see following table). Malaysia is so eager to prove itself, to elevate its stature on the world stage and to demonstrate its technological and economic prowess that, while other countries depict presidents and dignitaries on their currency, Malaysia has chosen to depict its technological accomplishments. You go girl.
Saturday, June 2, 2007
Friday, June 1, 2007
Malaysia Trip Report
3 days of diving have already passed after arriving in Kapalai 24 hrs after leaving Amsterdam. The flight was long but nothing special. The first leg had us stopping in KL with a 3 hr transit time to the next leg, Kota Kinabalu, then an hour later to Tawau. At Tawau we were picked up promptly then driven by bus to Semporna. We filled in some forms at the small harbour and never needed to touch our heavy bags again.
A speedboat then took us to Kapalai which took about an hour. Totally dead we arrived around 5 or 6 pm in time for dinner. The resort is a water village which has a small thin sandbank that shows itself when the tide is low. There are about 30 houses and some additional ones in various stages of construction. The current owner is expanding due to the island of Sipadan closing Dec 31st 2004.
The house we are staying in is called East Point and is fantastic. It faces the sea with large shutters that fully open to the expose the whole house to the breeze. The bathroom is well equipped with warm and cold water and a normal toilet. Every day we receive new towels, the room is cleaned, and the bed is made. The dive shop is located next to the restaurant. All the tanks are filled there but very little noise can be heard unless you are right next to the compressor..
The restaurant is the main gathering spot which breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served buffet style. The meals are mainly Asian style with lots of rice and vegetables. They do occasionally offer french fries and last night there was a great BBQ which had lamb, sate, squid, pork and tiger shrimp.
The water around Kapalai is boiling with fish. All day long the small fish are thrashing to the surface. The occasional big barracuda cruises by with all the regular parrotfish, surgeonfish, etc. The water looks crystal clear from the surface but one in it turns a bit milky with about a 10m max visibility.
Our first dive was an orientation dive which was done at the house reef. Hona our dive guide showed us a clown frogfish, a number of lionfish, pipefish, and others. Quite a nice first dive for the morning. The rest of the dives were done around Kapalai and I took a whole role of film on each one. The second day was supposed to be done at Sipadan but we never made it up in time so we did a few more dives around Kapalai and one at Mabul, just by the oilrig owned by Sea Adventures.
There is a resort on the oil rig but to be honest, it does not look like a very inviting place to spend your vacation. Since you could choose to stay on Sipadan, Mabul, or Kapalai, why would anyone stay on an old oilrig?
After a couple of days of diving macro, we then headed over to Sipadan for 3 dives. The diving there is spectacular. Huge schools of Jackfish, Batfish, and turtles everywhere. Sharks lying on ledges, 7 or 8 in a group. Hard and soft coral still in good shape in most places. I was swimming in the middle of these schools of fish just pointing the camera and getting shot after shot. Also being able to get quite close to the sharks with out them swimming away.
The weather so far has been consistent with rain and wind at night and hot sunny days in the day time. So what are the things I don’t like so far? I really have to think but the building noises throughout the day time are annoying, the lack of really nice towels (very thin), no nitrox, and that’s about it.
Sipadan Island itself is quite a busy place with a number of dive resorts ringing the small amount of land available. Although you see many brochures telling you about the beauty of this place, it has a run down overused appearance compared to Kapalai.
Taking a walk through the middle of the island you can see piles of garbage, used machinery on the ground, and the staff quarters. From what I can see the guest houses are a bit back from the water and around the Borneo and Sipadan resort, look a bit old. The might be the result of the island closing down however. A few years back these islands were disputed between Malaysia and Indonesia. The world court in Den Haag ruled in favour of Malaysia. Now the Malaysian government has decided to close all dive operations on the island and leave a single army post. Supposedly, all the operators have to remove all buildings.
Dec 4th
Today we saw the first rain in the daytime. The night was very stormy with both hard rain and wind. At lunch the rain has now gone and it is starting to brighten up. Diving around Kapalai we are still seeing new things on each dive. It also seems that they have bought new towels, thank-you ! Marlies has now completed her 300th dive today which means a 300 complementary t-shirt at dinner tonight.
Dec 8th
Left Kapalai today after receiving my 500th t-shirt last night. Marlies could not do the last 2 dives because of her ears and today I don’t think I would have been able to dive as well so the timing is perfect. We left at about 0620 without having to touch our bags again. A small fast boat took 45mins to Semporna. We then had a bus to Tawau which took another hour or so. Not much to see or do in the airport and we were not charged any extra for excess weight flying from Tawau to Sandakan. The flight lasted 40mins and a bus ride took us 25mins to the Sandakan Jungle Resort.
The rooms are quite nice with aircon and a ceiling fan, a bath/shower, and a double bed. There is a large pond in the middle of the resort which is surrounded by many big trees, shrubs, and flowers. I’m sure during the night we will be kept awake by all kinds of hoots and squawks.
The first attraction of the next day was the Orang-utan’s at Sepilok. It is only a 10min walk from the resort. Price of admission is 30 ringit (6 euros), plus 10 for a camera. We were led up a wooden pathway which snaked through the jungle till we reached one of the feeding platforms. There was a lone Orang-utan waiting on one of the trees. As the bags of fruit were opened on the platform 14 or 15 cam out, all hand over hand on the ropes coming out of nowhere. It was nice to watch and after about half and hour we headed back to watch a video done by someone in the UK about the park and the plight of the Orang-utans. Well worth the time to watch.
After walking back we took a stroll around the resort. AT one end the staff are sitting underneath one of the houses, taking a break I guess. On the other end there is a sign that indicates a nature trail of 400m. In small letters you can make out a sign that reads, “Enter at your own risk”. Plus it is very swampy and muddy so we turn back.
9 Dec
It rained quite heavily last night and is living up to its name as the rain forest. After a nice breakfast we headed out in a 4x4 to visit the Proboscis monkeys. The trip out was all on gravel roads full of potholes, which is why I guess we have the 4x4. The feeding was quite different than the Orang-utans. First there were quite a few more and the area was more open so you could them interact with each other. The feedings were quite low key events. A small shop sold some postcards and magnets and we had tea which watching it all. A very nice relaxing experience.
We then headed back for lunch and then out to a Buddhist temple near the city of Sandakan. The temple was ok but very new and nothing like we had seen in Sri Lanka. The city of Sandakan was a bit more fun. Shops very chaotically placed next to each other. A candy shop, a machine shop, fabric, household goods, everything! The market was crazy, all kinds of unknown vegetables. The women asking my name and all laughing and screaming like mad when I answered, lots of fun.
An hour had passed so quickly. Off in the jeep again to a local water village with all the kids saying ‘helloooo’ every 2 meters. Kids running and jumping everywhere and us taking pictures of them which stirred them up even more. Tonight is supposed to be the jungle night walk if it doesn’t rain.
Guess where the jungle night walk was? Yes, of course down the ‘Enter at your own risk’ trail. It was not so bad once you got on the path but Marlies was a bit put off when we had to pick off a couple of leaches from our socks. Our grand total of what we saw:
One rat
Three leaches
1 leaf insect
1 stick insect
1 unknown animal scurrying off
Overall a good time and I would definitely recommend both the diving and the jungle resort. You don’t need to spend more than a couple of days at the jungle resort which is probably done at the end of your trip if your combining it with diving.
With Sipadan Island closing, Kapalai is building more houses to accommodate the added guests. I have mixed feelings about how this will affect the resort. It was perfect when we were there and I would of hated to see anymore people than what there already was.
A speedboat then took us to Kapalai which took about an hour. Totally dead we arrived around 5 or 6 pm in time for dinner. The resort is a water village which has a small thin sandbank that shows itself when the tide is low. There are about 30 houses and some additional ones in various stages of construction. The current owner is expanding due to the island of Sipadan closing Dec 31st 2004.
The house we are staying in is called East Point and is fantastic. It faces the sea with large shutters that fully open to the expose the whole house to the breeze. The bathroom is well equipped with warm and cold water and a normal toilet. Every day we receive new towels, the room is cleaned, and the bed is made. The dive shop is located next to the restaurant. All the tanks are filled there but very little noise can be heard unless you are right next to the compressor..
The restaurant is the main gathering spot which breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served buffet style. The meals are mainly Asian style with lots of rice and vegetables. They do occasionally offer french fries and last night there was a great BBQ which had lamb, sate, squid, pork and tiger shrimp.
The water around Kapalai is boiling with fish. All day long the small fish are thrashing to the surface. The occasional big barracuda cruises by with all the regular parrotfish, surgeonfish, etc. The water looks crystal clear from the surface but one in it turns a bit milky with about a 10m max visibility.
Our first dive was an orientation dive which was done at the house reef. Hona our dive guide showed us a clown frogfish, a number of lionfish, pipefish, and others. Quite a nice first dive for the morning. The rest of the dives were done around Kapalai and I took a whole role of film on each one. The second day was supposed to be done at Sipadan but we never made it up in time so we did a few more dives around Kapalai and one at Mabul, just by the oilrig owned by Sea Adventures.
There is a resort on the oil rig but to be honest, it does not look like a very inviting place to spend your vacation. Since you could choose to stay on Sipadan, Mabul, or Kapalai, why would anyone stay on an old oilrig?
After a couple of days of diving macro, we then headed over to Sipadan for 3 dives. The diving there is spectacular. Huge schools of Jackfish, Batfish, and turtles everywhere. Sharks lying on ledges, 7 or 8 in a group. Hard and soft coral still in good shape in most places. I was swimming in the middle of these schools of fish just pointing the camera and getting shot after shot. Also being able to get quite close to the sharks with out them swimming away.
The weather so far has been consistent with rain and wind at night and hot sunny days in the day time. So what are the things I don’t like so far? I really have to think but the building noises throughout the day time are annoying, the lack of really nice towels (very thin), no nitrox, and that’s about it.
Sipadan Island itself is quite a busy place with a number of dive resorts ringing the small amount of land available. Although you see many brochures telling you about the beauty of this place, it has a run down overused appearance compared to Kapalai.
Taking a walk through the middle of the island you can see piles of garbage, used machinery on the ground, and the staff quarters. From what I can see the guest houses are a bit back from the water and around the Borneo and Sipadan resort, look a bit old. The might be the result of the island closing down however. A few years back these islands were disputed between Malaysia and Indonesia. The world court in Den Haag ruled in favour of Malaysia. Now the Malaysian government has decided to close all dive operations on the island and leave a single army post. Supposedly, all the operators have to remove all buildings.
Dec 4th
Today we saw the first rain in the daytime. The night was very stormy with both hard rain and wind. At lunch the rain has now gone and it is starting to brighten up. Diving around Kapalai we are still seeing new things on each dive. It also seems that they have bought new towels, thank-you ! Marlies has now completed her 300th dive today which means a 300 complementary t-shirt at dinner tonight.
Dec 8th
Left Kapalai today after receiving my 500th t-shirt last night. Marlies could not do the last 2 dives because of her ears and today I don’t think I would have been able to dive as well so the timing is perfect. We left at about 0620 without having to touch our bags again. A small fast boat took 45mins to Semporna. We then had a bus to Tawau which took another hour or so. Not much to see or do in the airport and we were not charged any extra for excess weight flying from Tawau to Sandakan. The flight lasted 40mins and a bus ride took us 25mins to the Sandakan Jungle Resort.
The rooms are quite nice with aircon and a ceiling fan, a bath/shower, and a double bed. There is a large pond in the middle of the resort which is surrounded by many big trees, shrubs, and flowers. I’m sure during the night we will be kept awake by all kinds of hoots and squawks.
The first attraction of the next day was the Orang-utan’s at Sepilok. It is only a 10min walk from the resort. Price of admission is 30 ringit (6 euros), plus 10 for a camera. We were led up a wooden pathway which snaked through the jungle till we reached one of the feeding platforms. There was a lone Orang-utan waiting on one of the trees. As the bags of fruit were opened on the platform 14 or 15 cam out, all hand over hand on the ropes coming out of nowhere. It was nice to watch and after about half and hour we headed back to watch a video done by someone in the UK about the park and the plight of the Orang-utans. Well worth the time to watch.
After walking back we took a stroll around the resort. AT one end the staff are sitting underneath one of the houses, taking a break I guess. On the other end there is a sign that indicates a nature trail of 400m. In small letters you can make out a sign that reads, “Enter at your own risk”. Plus it is very swampy and muddy so we turn back.
9 Dec
It rained quite heavily last night and is living up to its name as the rain forest. After a nice breakfast we headed out in a 4x4 to visit the Proboscis monkeys. The trip out was all on gravel roads full of potholes, which is why I guess we have the 4x4. The feeding was quite different than the Orang-utans. First there were quite a few more and the area was more open so you could them interact with each other. The feedings were quite low key events. A small shop sold some postcards and magnets and we had tea which watching it all. A very nice relaxing experience.
We then headed back for lunch and then out to a Buddhist temple near the city of Sandakan. The temple was ok but very new and nothing like we had seen in Sri Lanka. The city of Sandakan was a bit more fun. Shops very chaotically placed next to each other. A candy shop, a machine shop, fabric, household goods, everything! The market was crazy, all kinds of unknown vegetables. The women asking my name and all laughing and screaming like mad when I answered, lots of fun.
An hour had passed so quickly. Off in the jeep again to a local water village with all the kids saying ‘helloooo’ every 2 meters. Kids running and jumping everywhere and us taking pictures of them which stirred them up even more. Tonight is supposed to be the jungle night walk if it doesn’t rain.
Guess where the jungle night walk was? Yes, of course down the ‘Enter at your own risk’ trail. It was not so bad once you got on the path but Marlies was a bit put off when we had to pick off a couple of leaches from our socks. Our grand total of what we saw:
One rat
Three leaches
1 leaf insect
1 stick insect
1 unknown animal scurrying off
Overall a good time and I would definitely recommend both the diving and the jungle resort. You don’t need to spend more than a couple of days at the jungle resort which is probably done at the end of your trip if your combining it with diving.
With Sipadan Island closing, Kapalai is building more houses to accommodate the added guests. I have mixed feelings about how this will affect the resort. It was perfect when we were there and I would of hated to see anymore people than what there already was.
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Beaches of Langkawi Malaysia
The beaches of Langkawi are legendary in their pristine beauty. Fringed by swaying palms and sloping gently towards azure blue waters, they gently coax you into taking things easy and let the restless world pass you by without regrets. All beaches are gazetted as public areas and accessible to the public.
Pantai Tanjung Rhu - the world seems so far away from here.
Pantai Tanjung Rhu
Located on the northern-most tip of Langkawi Island, this wide sloping beach is fringed by the casuarina trees from which Pantai Tanjung Rhu gets its name. During low tide, it is possible to walk across a sandy stretch to the rocky outcrop of Pulau Chabang. Nearby are a number of caves as well as mangrove forests.
Pantai Batu Hampar is quite difficult to access
Pantai Batu Hampar
Fronting the Sheraton Langkawi Beach Resort at Teluk Nibung, this little stretch of beach is almost hidden. The only viable access is through the resort itself. Coconut and mangrove trees preserve the natural environment of the seafront, providing welcome shade and natural erosion protection.
Pantai Kok
This stretch of beach boasts white sand and swaying palms, ideal for lazing about while you watch the yachts and sailboats drift gently against the azure Andaman Sea. Several resorts such as the Berjaya Beach & Spa Resort and the Burau Bay Resort are located here.Unlike Pantai Chenang, Pantai Kok is a quiet and peaceful beach enclave.
Pantai Pasir Hitam (Black Sand Beach)
Pantai Pasir Hitam
During the wet season, the sand here turns almost black due to the tin and mineral deposits washed to the shore. An old fishing jetty gives it a sense of history, making a very picturesque scene that is popular among locals and tourists. The fishermen of Pantai Pasir Hitam are reputed to produce among the best quality chemical-free ikan bilis.
Water sports available at Pantai Chenang
Pantai Chenang
About 18.4 km from Kuah, this beach is the liveliest stretch on the island, with restaurants and bars offering a range of local, western and fusion cuisines. It is the favourite of those who prefer a more lively pace of beach life. Pantai Chenang has the highest concentration of hotels and resorts that range from the basic to the five-star establishments.
The beach at Teluk Datai - a public beach
Pantai Datai
Characterised by boulders at both ends of the beach and dense forest in the background, Pantai Datai slopes gently into clear blue waters. Facing the beach directly is the delightful little island of Pulau Anak Datai.Once Langkawi's best-kept secret, the public beach at Teluk Datai has now been 'unofficially' commandeered by the hotels that are located there.
Pantai Teluk Yu
Its name literally means "Bay of Sharks" but there has never been any sighting of these creatures except for the harmless smaller varieties. The wide, sandy beach is actually a continuation of Pantai Pasir Hitam but without the the black mineral deposits. The Teluk Yu Recreational area is an ideal place to while away the hours, especially during the late afternoons.
Pantai Tanjung Rhu - the world seems so far away from here.
Pantai Tanjung Rhu
Located on the northern-most tip of Langkawi Island, this wide sloping beach is fringed by the casuarina trees from which Pantai Tanjung Rhu gets its name. During low tide, it is possible to walk across a sandy stretch to the rocky outcrop of Pulau Chabang. Nearby are a number of caves as well as mangrove forests.
Pantai Batu Hampar is quite difficult to access
Pantai Batu Hampar
Fronting the Sheraton Langkawi Beach Resort at Teluk Nibung, this little stretch of beach is almost hidden. The only viable access is through the resort itself. Coconut and mangrove trees preserve the natural environment of the seafront, providing welcome shade and natural erosion protection.
Pantai Kok
This stretch of beach boasts white sand and swaying palms, ideal for lazing about while you watch the yachts and sailboats drift gently against the azure Andaman Sea. Several resorts such as the Berjaya Beach & Spa Resort and the Burau Bay Resort are located here.Unlike Pantai Chenang, Pantai Kok is a quiet and peaceful beach enclave.
Pantai Pasir Hitam (Black Sand Beach)
Pantai Pasir Hitam
During the wet season, the sand here turns almost black due to the tin and mineral deposits washed to the shore. An old fishing jetty gives it a sense of history, making a very picturesque scene that is popular among locals and tourists. The fishermen of Pantai Pasir Hitam are reputed to produce among the best quality chemical-free ikan bilis.
Water sports available at Pantai Chenang
Pantai Chenang
About 18.4 km from Kuah, this beach is the liveliest stretch on the island, with restaurants and bars offering a range of local, western and fusion cuisines. It is the favourite of those who prefer a more lively pace of beach life. Pantai Chenang has the highest concentration of hotels and resorts that range from the basic to the five-star establishments.
The beach at Teluk Datai - a public beach
Pantai Datai
Characterised by boulders at both ends of the beach and dense forest in the background, Pantai Datai slopes gently into clear blue waters. Facing the beach directly is the delightful little island of Pulau Anak Datai.Once Langkawi's best-kept secret, the public beach at Teluk Datai has now been 'unofficially' commandeered by the hotels that are located there.
Pantai Teluk Yu
Its name literally means "Bay of Sharks" but there has never been any sighting of these creatures except for the harmless smaller varieties. The wide, sandy beach is actually a continuation of Pantai Pasir Hitam but without the the black mineral deposits. The Teluk Yu Recreational area is an ideal place to while away the hours, especially during the late afternoons.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Malaysia Events
The Asian X-Games comes to Kuala Lumpur. The world's best alternative sports athletes will come to Malaysia, competing for prize money, medals and the most coveted prize of all, a qualifying place in the 2002 Summer X-Games in America.
As the Asian X-Games Qualifier presented by Toyota moves into its third year, over 250 of Asia and the world's top alternative sports athletes will converge upon Malaysia to compete for prize money, medals and the most coveted prize of all - a qualifying place in the 2002 Summer X Games in the US. The Asian X Games Qualifier has become a hit in-and-around the Pacific Rim, drawing competitors from Australia, Asia, as well as the States.
Kuala Lumpur City is the perfect place to stage the Asian X games Qualifier, especially as the backdrop to the event will be the "extreme" landmark of the Petronas Twin Towers, tallest twin tower in the world.
Events at the Asian X Games includes:
Skateboarding - this year sees the action take place in several disciplines. Park and Vert: the street skating takes place on a specially designed course that replicates the obstacles found on the street - stairs, handrails and banks, to name just a few. Vert skating is performed on a Vert ramp, where the skaters compete for singles and doubles titles on the huge Halfpipe. Tony Hawk made skateboarding history here in the 1999 X Games by landing a 900 degree spin on the Vert ramp, something he had been attempting for nearly a decade.
BMX - there are several categories for the BMX stars to contend with: Vert, Flatland and Park. The Vert and Street are performed on the same obstacles as the skateboarding with predominately the same criteria. The flatland discipline is a highly skillful side of BMX riding, with the cyclist performing tricks on and around his or her bike, very much like the trick cyclists of old.
Sport Climbing - is a very spectator friendly side to rock climbing, with competitors racing against each other up a man-made climbing wall in front of huge crowds!
Wakeboarding - one of the fastest growing sports at the moment, competitors will be seen jumping the wakes of the boats towing them, attempting to get as much air as they can whilst performing flips, spins and grabbed tricks.
Inline Skating - the inline skaters use the same course' as the skateboarders. Here the skaters compete in Vert, Vert doubles and street.
For further information check the X-Games website.
As the Asian X-Games Qualifier presented by Toyota moves into its third year, over 250 of Asia and the world's top alternative sports athletes will converge upon Malaysia to compete for prize money, medals and the most coveted prize of all - a qualifying place in the 2002 Summer X Games in the US. The Asian X Games Qualifier has become a hit in-and-around the Pacific Rim, drawing competitors from Australia, Asia, as well as the States.
Kuala Lumpur City is the perfect place to stage the Asian X games Qualifier, especially as the backdrop to the event will be the "extreme" landmark of the Petronas Twin Towers, tallest twin tower in the world.
Events at the Asian X Games includes:
Skateboarding - this year sees the action take place in several disciplines. Park and Vert: the street skating takes place on a specially designed course that replicates the obstacles found on the street - stairs, handrails and banks, to name just a few. Vert skating is performed on a Vert ramp, where the skaters compete for singles and doubles titles on the huge Halfpipe. Tony Hawk made skateboarding history here in the 1999 X Games by landing a 900 degree spin on the Vert ramp, something he had been attempting for nearly a decade.
BMX - there are several categories for the BMX stars to contend with: Vert, Flatland and Park. The Vert and Street are performed on the same obstacles as the skateboarding with predominately the same criteria. The flatland discipline is a highly skillful side of BMX riding, with the cyclist performing tricks on and around his or her bike, very much like the trick cyclists of old.
Sport Climbing - is a very spectator friendly side to rock climbing, with competitors racing against each other up a man-made climbing wall in front of huge crowds!
Wakeboarding - one of the fastest growing sports at the moment, competitors will be seen jumping the wakes of the boats towing them, attempting to get as much air as they can whilst performing flips, spins and grabbed tricks.
Inline Skating - the inline skaters use the same course' as the skateboarders. Here the skaters compete in Vert, Vert doubles and street.
For further information check the X-Games website.
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Malaysia Trip - Kuala Lumpur
Planning a Trip
Visitor Information
In Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysia Tourism Board has several offices. The largest is at the MTC, the Malaysia Tourist Centre, located on 109 Jalan Ampang (tel. 03/2164-3929) and open daily from 7:30am to 5:30pm. In addition to a tourist information desk, MTC also has a money changer; ATM; tourist police post; travel agent booking for Taman Negara trips, city tours, and limited hotel bookings; souvenir shops; an amphitheater; and Transnasional bus ticket bookings.
Vision KL Magazine is offered for free in many hotel rooms and has listings for events in KL and around the country, plus ads for restaurants and shops. At newsstands it costs RM6.80 ($1.80).
Getting There
By Plane The new Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) (tel. 03/8776-2000) opened in June 1998. Located in Sepang, 53km (32 miles) outside the city, KLIA is a huge complex with business centers, dining facilities, a fitness center, medical services, shopping, post offices, and an airport hotel operated by Pan Pacific (tel. 03/8787-3333). Although there are money changers, they are few and far between, so hop on the first line you see and don't assume there's another one just around the corner.
Getting Into Town from the Airport
By Taxi -- City taxis are not permitted to pick up fares from the airport (although you will find illegal gypsy cabs -- avoid them!), but special airport taxis (tel. 03/8787-3030) operate round the clock, charging RM88 ($23) for a premier car (Mercedes) and RM63 ($17) for a standard vehicle (locally-built Proton). Coupons must be purchased at the arrival concourse.
An express coach (tel. 03/8776-6595) connects KLIA to most of the city's major hotels. Operating every 30 minutes from 5:30am to 10:15pm daily, the trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and costs RM20 ($5.25) adult and RM13 ($3.40) child.
The Express Rail Link (tel. 03/2267-8000) runs between KLIA and KL Sentral train station from 5am to 1am daily. Trains depart every 15 minutes and take 28 minutes to complete the journey. Tickets cost RM35 ($9.20) for adults and RM15 ($3.95) for children. From KL Sentral, taxis are always on hand and use a coupon system (about RM7/$1.85 or RM8/$2.10 to central parts of the city), or you can catch one of the city's commuter trains to a station near your hotel.
By Train -- I love KL's shiny new train station, KL Sentral. Not only does it serve as a clean, safe, and orderly base from which to take the train, it's also a hub for local commuter train services around the city; it's got tons of facilities, money changers, ATMs, fast food, and shops; and it's got an easy taxi coupon system (about RM7/$1.85 or RM8/$2.10 to central parts of the city) -- cabs are really easy to find here. For KL Sentral information, call tel. 03/2267-1200.
By Bus -- If you're arriving on the executive bus from Singapore, you'll be dropped at the MTC (Malaysia Tourism Centre) on Jalan Ampang in the center of town. Three other bus terminals, Puduraya Terminal on Jalan Pudu, Putra Terminal on Jalan Tun Ismail, and Pekililing Terminal on Jalan Ipoh handle inter-city bus departures and arrivals to all parts of the country. If you arrive at Puduraya, the biggest of the three, good luck! It's congested -- both with toxic fumes and traffic jams: one of the reasons I avoid standard bus travel in Malaysia. Taxis are not hard to find from any of these terminals.
Getting Around
Kuala Lumpur is a prime example of a city that was not planned, per se, from a master graph of streets. Rather, because of its beginnings as an outpost, it grew as it needed to, expanding outward and swallowing up suburbs. The result is a tangled web of streets too narrow to support the traffic of a capital city. Cars and buses weave through one-way lanes, with countless motorbikes sneaking in and out, sometimes in the opposite direction of traffic or up on the sidewalks. Expect traffic jams in the morning rush between 6 and 9am, and again between 4 and 7pm. At other times, taxis are a convenient way of getting around, but the commuter train system, if they're going where you need to, is perhaps the best value and easiest route. City buses are hot and crowded with some very confusing routes. Walking can also be frustrating. Many sidewalks are in poor condition, with buckled tiles and gaping gutters. The heat can be prohibitive as well. However, areas within the colonial heart of the city, Chinatown, Little India, and some areas in the Golden Triangle are within walking distance of each other.
By Taxi -- If you ask me, KL cabbies should have their tires slashed. If you can get one to stop, the driver will almost always refuse to use the meter (which is against the law), quoting what seems to be the standard -- RM10 ($2.65), usually for a trip that normally costs RM4 ($1.05). If it's raining, expect that quote to double. I usually don't dicker over the price because it's only a buck and a half. It's just frustrating when cab after cab passes you by. In some places within the city, taxi stands try to solve this problem. Be prepared for taxis to pull over, roll down the window, and hear the pleas from the queue before deciding upon which passenger to take, regardless of the order of the queue. Somewhere there are numbers to call for taxi booking -- what a joke! Maybe they'll show, and maybe they won't. Don't even waste your time. Technically, the metered fare is RM2 (55¢) for the first 2km and an additional RM0.10 (3¢) for each 200m after that. Between midnight and 6am you'll be charged an extra 50% of the total fare.
By Bus -- I don't recommend travel on city buses. They're cheap but not dependable, with city routes that will get newcomers lost for sure. It's not the most relaxing way to get around.
By Rail -- KL has a network of mass transit trains that snake through the city and out to the suburbs, and it'll be worth your time to become familiar with them, because taxis are sometimes unreliable and traffic jams can be unbearable. Trouble is, there are five train routes and each one is operated by a different company. How confusing! The lines don't seem to connect in any logical way.
The four lines that are most useful to visitors are the Putra LRT, the Star LRT, the KL Monorail, and the ERL Express Rail Link to the airport. The latter route is explained under "Getting into Town from the Airport," above.
Putra LRT has stops at Bangsar (featured in the section "Nightlife," later in this chapter), KL Sentral (train station), Pasar Seni (Chinatown), Masjid Jamek, Dang Wangi, and KLCC shopping center. An average fare would be about RM1.40 (35¢).
The Star LRT is only convenient if you need to get to the Putra World Trade Centre. It also stops at Masjid Jamek and Plaza Rayat. An average trip will cost well under RM2 (55¢).
The newly opened KL Monorail provides good access through the main hotel and shopping areas of the city, including stops at KL Sentral, Imbi, Bukit Bintang (the main shopping strip), and Raja Chulan (along Jalan Sultan Ismail, where many hotels are). Fares run between RM1.20 (30¢) and RM 2.50 (65¢).
As a rough guide all lines operate between 5 or 6am till around midnight, with trains coming every 10 minutes or so. Tickets can be purchased at any station either from the stationmaster or from single-fare electronic ticket booths.
On Foot -- The heat and humidity can make walking between attractions pretty uncomfortable. However, sometimes the traffic is so unbearable that you'll get where you're going much faster by strapping on your tennis shoes and hiking it.
Visitor Information
In Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysia Tourism Board has several offices. The largest is at the MTC, the Malaysia Tourist Centre, located on 109 Jalan Ampang (tel. 03/2164-3929) and open daily from 7:30am to 5:30pm. In addition to a tourist information desk, MTC also has a money changer; ATM; tourist police post; travel agent booking for Taman Negara trips, city tours, and limited hotel bookings; souvenir shops; an amphitheater; and Transnasional bus ticket bookings.
Vision KL Magazine is offered for free in many hotel rooms and has listings for events in KL and around the country, plus ads for restaurants and shops. At newsstands it costs RM6.80 ($1.80).
Getting There
By Plane The new Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) (tel. 03/8776-2000) opened in June 1998. Located in Sepang, 53km (32 miles) outside the city, KLIA is a huge complex with business centers, dining facilities, a fitness center, medical services, shopping, post offices, and an airport hotel operated by Pan Pacific (tel. 03/8787-3333). Although there are money changers, they are few and far between, so hop on the first line you see and don't assume there's another one just around the corner.
Getting Into Town from the Airport
By Taxi -- City taxis are not permitted to pick up fares from the airport (although you will find illegal gypsy cabs -- avoid them!), but special airport taxis (tel. 03/8787-3030) operate round the clock, charging RM88 ($23) for a premier car (Mercedes) and RM63 ($17) for a standard vehicle (locally-built Proton). Coupons must be purchased at the arrival concourse.
An express coach (tel. 03/8776-6595) connects KLIA to most of the city's major hotels. Operating every 30 minutes from 5:30am to 10:15pm daily, the trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and costs RM20 ($5.25) adult and RM13 ($3.40) child.
The Express Rail Link (tel. 03/2267-8000) runs between KLIA and KL Sentral train station from 5am to 1am daily. Trains depart every 15 minutes and take 28 minutes to complete the journey. Tickets cost RM35 ($9.20) for adults and RM15 ($3.95) for children. From KL Sentral, taxis are always on hand and use a coupon system (about RM7/$1.85 or RM8/$2.10 to central parts of the city), or you can catch one of the city's commuter trains to a station near your hotel.
By Train -- I love KL's shiny new train station, KL Sentral. Not only does it serve as a clean, safe, and orderly base from which to take the train, it's also a hub for local commuter train services around the city; it's got tons of facilities, money changers, ATMs, fast food, and shops; and it's got an easy taxi coupon system (about RM7/$1.85 or RM8/$2.10 to central parts of the city) -- cabs are really easy to find here. For KL Sentral information, call tel. 03/2267-1200.
By Bus -- If you're arriving on the executive bus from Singapore, you'll be dropped at the MTC (Malaysia Tourism Centre) on Jalan Ampang in the center of town. Three other bus terminals, Puduraya Terminal on Jalan Pudu, Putra Terminal on Jalan Tun Ismail, and Pekililing Terminal on Jalan Ipoh handle inter-city bus departures and arrivals to all parts of the country. If you arrive at Puduraya, the biggest of the three, good luck! It's congested -- both with toxic fumes and traffic jams: one of the reasons I avoid standard bus travel in Malaysia. Taxis are not hard to find from any of these terminals.
Getting Around
Kuala Lumpur is a prime example of a city that was not planned, per se, from a master graph of streets. Rather, because of its beginnings as an outpost, it grew as it needed to, expanding outward and swallowing up suburbs. The result is a tangled web of streets too narrow to support the traffic of a capital city. Cars and buses weave through one-way lanes, with countless motorbikes sneaking in and out, sometimes in the opposite direction of traffic or up on the sidewalks. Expect traffic jams in the morning rush between 6 and 9am, and again between 4 and 7pm. At other times, taxis are a convenient way of getting around, but the commuter train system, if they're going where you need to, is perhaps the best value and easiest route. City buses are hot and crowded with some very confusing routes. Walking can also be frustrating. Many sidewalks are in poor condition, with buckled tiles and gaping gutters. The heat can be prohibitive as well. However, areas within the colonial heart of the city, Chinatown, Little India, and some areas in the Golden Triangle are within walking distance of each other.
By Taxi -- If you ask me, KL cabbies should have their tires slashed. If you can get one to stop, the driver will almost always refuse to use the meter (which is against the law), quoting what seems to be the standard -- RM10 ($2.65), usually for a trip that normally costs RM4 ($1.05). If it's raining, expect that quote to double. I usually don't dicker over the price because it's only a buck and a half. It's just frustrating when cab after cab passes you by. In some places within the city, taxi stands try to solve this problem. Be prepared for taxis to pull over, roll down the window, and hear the pleas from the queue before deciding upon which passenger to take, regardless of the order of the queue. Somewhere there are numbers to call for taxi booking -- what a joke! Maybe they'll show, and maybe they won't. Don't even waste your time. Technically, the metered fare is RM2 (55¢) for the first 2km and an additional RM0.10 (3¢) for each 200m after that. Between midnight and 6am you'll be charged an extra 50% of the total fare.
By Bus -- I don't recommend travel on city buses. They're cheap but not dependable, with city routes that will get newcomers lost for sure. It's not the most relaxing way to get around.
By Rail -- KL has a network of mass transit trains that snake through the city and out to the suburbs, and it'll be worth your time to become familiar with them, because taxis are sometimes unreliable and traffic jams can be unbearable. Trouble is, there are five train routes and each one is operated by a different company. How confusing! The lines don't seem to connect in any logical way.
The four lines that are most useful to visitors are the Putra LRT, the Star LRT, the KL Monorail, and the ERL Express Rail Link to the airport. The latter route is explained under "Getting into Town from the Airport," above.
Putra LRT has stops at Bangsar (featured in the section "Nightlife," later in this chapter), KL Sentral (train station), Pasar Seni (Chinatown), Masjid Jamek, Dang Wangi, and KLCC shopping center. An average fare would be about RM1.40 (35¢).
The Star LRT is only convenient if you need to get to the Putra World Trade Centre. It also stops at Masjid Jamek and Plaza Rayat. An average trip will cost well under RM2 (55¢).
The newly opened KL Monorail provides good access through the main hotel and shopping areas of the city, including stops at KL Sentral, Imbi, Bukit Bintang (the main shopping strip), and Raja Chulan (along Jalan Sultan Ismail, where many hotels are). Fares run between RM1.20 (30¢) and RM 2.50 (65¢).
As a rough guide all lines operate between 5 or 6am till around midnight, with trains coming every 10 minutes or so. Tickets can be purchased at any station either from the stationmaster or from single-fare electronic ticket booths.
On Foot -- The heat and humidity can make walking between attractions pretty uncomfortable. However, sometimes the traffic is so unbearable that you'll get where you're going much faster by strapping on your tennis shoes and hiking it.
Malaysia Vacation
A little bit of history...
Malaysia was created in 1963 when Sabah and Sarawak (north Borneo states), and for a brief time Singapore, joined Malaya to form the 13 state federation that exists today. The earliest Malay settlers are believed to have arrived around 10,000 years ago on the Malaya Peninsular from the north. Malaya’s prime maritime position made it an attractive location for traders and colonists alike. While Indian and Chinese traders had long held an attachment to the country, by the early 16th century Portuguese colonists lay claim to the land. In 1641, the Dutch gained control until they were overthrown by the British in1795. Malaya achieved independence by 1954 but not before the country was occupied by the Japanese during WW II and Chinese communists attempted to gain power.
Initially, the formation of Malaysia was marred by external and internal tensions; during the late 1960s conflict between Indonesia and escalating racial tensions, mainly between the Malay and Chinese, threatened the country’s stability. Steps were made to ensure economic and political security when in 1968 Malaysia became a founding member of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) and in 1971 a new economic policy was devised to give Malays a greater economic foothold. During the 1980s and early 1990s, Malaysia experienced a strong economy and the rapid development of its manufacturing and industry sectors. It continues to have a stable economy despite the Asian economic crisis in 1997 and the effects of the Tsunami in 2004.
Best time to go...
Malaysia enjoys a constant hot and humid climate, averaging at around 30ËšC, with the highland areas several degrees cooler. The main hindrance to enjoying all that the country has to offer is the monsoon season which pelts the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia, Sabah’s north east region and the west of Sarawak with heavy rains from November to February. During this time, many resorts close and boat services come to a halt. A scattering of thunderstorms can occur on the Peninsular’s west coast during April and May. Weather wise, April through to October are the best times to visit.
The country is at its most populous with an influx of tourists from early December to late January and during the peak summer season which runs from June to August. It’s advisable to book travel and accommodation in advance if visiting during these times.
Getting around...
Flying is the only practical way of crossing the South China Sea to get to the Peninsular from East Malaysia and back. Main domestic carrier Malaysia Airlines and Air Asia fly between the two regions and it tends to be cheaper to fly to East Malaysia from Johor Bahru than from Kuala Lumpur.
Train services are comfortable and efficient, albeit limited. Peninsular Malaysia has two rail lines, one running from Singapore to Thailand via Kuala Lumpur and a line branching out at Gemas and running to the north east of the country; it’s also known as the Jungle Train. There is also a line that runs from Tenom to Kota Kinabalu in East Malaysia.
An extensive system and cheap fares makes bus travel a top choice for long distances. There are a number of bus companies such as Transnasional which run regular services to major towns in air-conditioned comfort. But you can sometimes have too much of a good thing and the air-con can feel like an artic chill so it’s advisable to travel with a thick jumper or blanket.
With a well developed highway system and the presence of major car rental firms in towns and cities, driving is a feasible option. There are different packages available with some agencies offering unlimited mileage, while some rentals include a driver. Petrol prices are comparatively reasonable and tolls are charged on some roads. Parking spaces in major cities is limited.
For travelling shorter distances, there are regular bus services between the main cities, while 4 wheel drive vehicles are the vehicles of choice in the rural areas of Sabah and Sarawak. There’s an abundance of taxis, which can also be hired for long distances, and most are metered. Bicycle rickshaws are a novel way to get around and appear to be in existence primarily for the tourist trade; you’ll be pressed to find them in Kuala Lumpur, though they can be found in Penang and Malacca. It’s advisable to negotiate a fare before you board.
Malaysia was created in 1963 when Sabah and Sarawak (north Borneo states), and for a brief time Singapore, joined Malaya to form the 13 state federation that exists today. The earliest Malay settlers are believed to have arrived around 10,000 years ago on the Malaya Peninsular from the north. Malaya’s prime maritime position made it an attractive location for traders and colonists alike. While Indian and Chinese traders had long held an attachment to the country, by the early 16th century Portuguese colonists lay claim to the land. In 1641, the Dutch gained control until they were overthrown by the British in1795. Malaya achieved independence by 1954 but not before the country was occupied by the Japanese during WW II and Chinese communists attempted to gain power.
Initially, the formation of Malaysia was marred by external and internal tensions; during the late 1960s conflict between Indonesia and escalating racial tensions, mainly between the Malay and Chinese, threatened the country’s stability. Steps were made to ensure economic and political security when in 1968 Malaysia became a founding member of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) and in 1971 a new economic policy was devised to give Malays a greater economic foothold. During the 1980s and early 1990s, Malaysia experienced a strong economy and the rapid development of its manufacturing and industry sectors. It continues to have a stable economy despite the Asian economic crisis in 1997 and the effects of the Tsunami in 2004.
Best time to go...
Malaysia enjoys a constant hot and humid climate, averaging at around 30ËšC, with the highland areas several degrees cooler. The main hindrance to enjoying all that the country has to offer is the monsoon season which pelts the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia, Sabah’s north east region and the west of Sarawak with heavy rains from November to February. During this time, many resorts close and boat services come to a halt. A scattering of thunderstorms can occur on the Peninsular’s west coast during April and May. Weather wise, April through to October are the best times to visit.
The country is at its most populous with an influx of tourists from early December to late January and during the peak summer season which runs from June to August. It’s advisable to book travel and accommodation in advance if visiting during these times.
Getting around...
Flying is the only practical way of crossing the South China Sea to get to the Peninsular from East Malaysia and back. Main domestic carrier Malaysia Airlines and Air Asia fly between the two regions and it tends to be cheaper to fly to East Malaysia from Johor Bahru than from Kuala Lumpur.
Train services are comfortable and efficient, albeit limited. Peninsular Malaysia has two rail lines, one running from Singapore to Thailand via Kuala Lumpur and a line branching out at Gemas and running to the north east of the country; it’s also known as the Jungle Train. There is also a line that runs from Tenom to Kota Kinabalu in East Malaysia.
An extensive system and cheap fares makes bus travel a top choice for long distances. There are a number of bus companies such as Transnasional which run regular services to major towns in air-conditioned comfort. But you can sometimes have too much of a good thing and the air-con can feel like an artic chill so it’s advisable to travel with a thick jumper or blanket.
With a well developed highway system and the presence of major car rental firms in towns and cities, driving is a feasible option. There are different packages available with some agencies offering unlimited mileage, while some rentals include a driver. Petrol prices are comparatively reasonable and tolls are charged on some roads. Parking spaces in major cities is limited.
For travelling shorter distances, there are regular bus services between the main cities, while 4 wheel drive vehicles are the vehicles of choice in the rural areas of Sabah and Sarawak. There’s an abundance of taxis, which can also be hired for long distances, and most are metered. Bicycle rickshaws are a novel way to get around and appear to be in existence primarily for the tourist trade; you’ll be pressed to find them in Kuala Lumpur, though they can be found in Penang and Malacca. It’s advisable to negotiate a fare before you board.
Monday, May 28, 2007
Penang George Town Malaysia
Penang people like to think of their city as a little bit of serendipity. It has one of the finest collections of 19th-century heritage buildings in Southeast Asia. It has hills for quick getaways, swimming off the west coast beaches and it is cosy without being parochial. Store manager Mary Choo has been feeling less kindly about her hometown recently. When the traffic backs up, it takes her at least an hour to drive the 12 kilometers downtown (while Georgetown is the built-up center, Penang island is usually regarded as one community).
In this former colonial port of one million people, life is less frenetic than in Kuala Lumpur. But Malaysia's rapid development has also had an impact here. Hills that offer cool respite have lost significant green cover to overzealous building, leading to mud slides and, recently, flash floods. In the past month, several hundred people had to be evacuated, prompting the construction of a channel to divert the flow from a major river. Garbage pile-ups are an emerging issue. But the biggest gripe is congestion. After eight years of 10% growth in private cars, there are now more than 400 vehicles per kilometer of road at peak times.
Early this year, the city came up with an idea to reduce car use for short city trips: a free bus service circling the major business locations, government offices and tourist sites. "It is the best project to have come out of the municipal council," says Dr. Choong Sim Poey, who heads a citizens' transport lobby. It would not only reduce congestion but also air and noise pollution. Except the shuttle plan is in a jam too. Federal authorities overseeing public transport have yet to approve it.
Residents like Dr. Choong find the hold-up frustrating, especially when the Penang state government is ready to fund the service. Says traffic planner Ganesh Rasagam: "Decision-makers in KL are not always aware of the local situation." Some see this as a case for more autonomy. City governments should have greater say over matters affecting their day-to-day functioning, says state councilor Toh Kin Woon. "It will allow them to be more proactive in improving public services."
The municipal council is not short on ideas. Campbell Street, a traditional shopping area, is getting a makeover, with limits on vehicle entry, widened pavements, street furniture and plenty of trees. If the experiment takes off, says town planning director Tan Thean Siew, residents can expect more pedestrian-friendly town squares. Of course, you have to allow for bias when the locals insist "Penang is the best place to live." But it is undoubtedly a community with verve. The traffic can be fixed, too, Rasagam says - "if we have the right sorts of policies."
In this former colonial port of one million people, life is less frenetic than in Kuala Lumpur. But Malaysia's rapid development has also had an impact here. Hills that offer cool respite have lost significant green cover to overzealous building, leading to mud slides and, recently, flash floods. In the past month, several hundred people had to be evacuated, prompting the construction of a channel to divert the flow from a major river. Garbage pile-ups are an emerging issue. But the biggest gripe is congestion. After eight years of 10% growth in private cars, there are now more than 400 vehicles per kilometer of road at peak times.
Early this year, the city came up with an idea to reduce car use for short city trips: a free bus service circling the major business locations, government offices and tourist sites. "It is the best project to have come out of the municipal council," says Dr. Choong Sim Poey, who heads a citizens' transport lobby. It would not only reduce congestion but also air and noise pollution. Except the shuttle plan is in a jam too. Federal authorities overseeing public transport have yet to approve it.
Residents like Dr. Choong find the hold-up frustrating, especially when the Penang state government is ready to fund the service. Says traffic planner Ganesh Rasagam: "Decision-makers in KL are not always aware of the local situation." Some see this as a case for more autonomy. City governments should have greater say over matters affecting their day-to-day functioning, says state councilor Toh Kin Woon. "It will allow them to be more proactive in improving public services."
The municipal council is not short on ideas. Campbell Street, a traditional shopping area, is getting a makeover, with limits on vehicle entry, widened pavements, street furniture and plenty of trees. If the experiment takes off, says town planning director Tan Thean Siew, residents can expect more pedestrian-friendly town squares. Of course, you have to allow for bias when the locals insist "Penang is the best place to live." But it is undoubtedly a community with verve. The traffic can be fixed, too, Rasagam says - "if we have the right sorts of policies."
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